A well established and well run outfit. Great food, professionally showcased with a proud focus on sustainability. - The Black Swan at Oldstead York - Trade Reserverings
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🙂 4/5 - A well established and well run outfit. Great food, professionally showcased with a proud focus on sustainability.
By 👻 @Stephen H, 02/11/2024 12:00 am
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The Black Swan is a restaurant with rooms in the southwest area of the North York Moors ran by James and Tommy Banks. Its culinary competence currently boasts 4 AA rosettes, and a Michelin star to boot. The restaurant burst into the headlines in 2017 when it was voted the best restaurant in the world by Trip Advisor, a fine achievement regardless of how you view the quality of that site’s output. Finding the restaurant can be a bit tricky, even What3words needed all its processing power to guide us in once you leave the A19 or A1 (also follow the guidance on the restaurant’s website) but on your arrival very pleasant views over green moors are there to greet you. There’s plenty round about to visit including the Kilburn White Horse and nearby York. It’s a 25 min bendy B-road walk to Byland Abbey and pop into the recent addition to the Banks stable right opposite, The Abbey Inn, for a warm-up beer before dinner. Any visit to a restaurant adorned with Michelin’s highest accolade is an experience from the outset. We went for a dinner, bed and breakfast package. We were welcomed by disarming staff in the bar located below the main dining room. Checking in was prompt, special occasions and dietary requirements captured in a few taps. This is cheaper during the week. I’ll get to the gastronomy shortly, but the accommodation is worth a mention. A short walk around the main building takes you to a terrace of rooms. All are well appointed. I am no Kelly Hoppen but these were what I would call country chic. Your bolt hole for the night comes complete with rolltop bath which may have the nearby Brayton Barff reservoir on an amber alert if filled and with a mini bar including a bunch of Banks brothers’ products there’s a lot to like here. Minor quibble was the central thermostat was obviously caught between the Summer into Autumn / Winter zone and proved too hot a setting during the night we were there. The restaurant offers a Tasting menu only, so no a la carte or fixed price menu, although the lunchtime menu is better value with a few courses less. The 11 course dinner menu, excluding the optional cheese course is £175, with the lunch menu at £135. For openers pre dinner snacks were delivered to us in the aforementioned bar seating. A row of 3 delights were given a thorough overview, with an order of consumption helpfully recommended, by our waiter. First up a Smoked Eel tartlet, with eel emulsion running through. I always find eel strong, smoked mackerel turned up to 11 if you will, but the Julienne of apple nicely suppressed this. The tart was topped with Royal Beluski caviar for added luxury. A fine starting morsel. Next a Baron Bigod donut with grated truffle on top. The donut mix was Donut very slightly doughy but a rich cheese hit nonetheless. Finally, duck liver, endive and elderberry. This was beautifully earthy with a gamey flavor, blackcurrant providing colour and a slightly richer base for the tartlet, a fine finish. We moved upstairs to the dining room, sparsely decorated with 8 or so. The dining room was above the bar area. The atmosphere would have been somewhat library like if it wasn’t for the well thought out music mix that was playing jauntily in the background. Some may be put off by the noise cause by the hard floor as staff and customers move around but it didn’t bother us, and again the lack of windows on each side may both some who like a view but the food on offer is the star. To kick off hogget. I haven’t come across hogget a lot, but this is a 1 – 2-year-old lamb. The creamy top gave way to a deep ragout underneath and intense foamy custard. Alongside this was what was described as a hogget cigar, a spring roll like component containing hogget tartare. This showcased great use of the livestock available locally. It was unusual to introduce a bread-and-butter course so far into the meal but two grain loaves including cultured butter which was cleverly topped with what was described as sourdough molasses. The humble squash was used in several ways to accompany the perfectly cooked. The squash had been roasted, pickled and included in a miso butter with some roasted tomato (season end apparently). Lots of sweet elements to this dish but the scallop was not overwhelmed. A herb called tagete ran through the dish to freshen. Staying with the sea next with a nugget of cod, which was perfectly cooked. The flesh translucent and first my thought was it was under, but it was perfection. This was supremely accurate cooking and the lightly crisped skin on top showing off more technique. The surrounding sauce was a creamy number with a seafood taste due to a reduction from the razor clam but this lacked a little intensity for me. Next was Charlotte Potato with lardo and alliums. This was slightly underwhelming due to the potatoes being undercooked. The pork jowls were flavourful piggy medallions and made up for potatogate. This minor blip was rescued by a showcase of partridge. A well thought through presentation from west to east on the plate of Partridge breast, sausage made from leg meat and, parsnip, plum with damson and a sticky damson jus. This was intense flavouring that may overwhelm some but a crowd pleaser for game lovers. Onto dessert starting with Blackberry. This light yoghurt dish was adorned with spruce powder made from handpicked early spring shoots. This was refreshing, the blackberry came with a milk yoghurt foam, apple and spruce gel, milk. This was my dining partner’s favourite, fresh and vibrant, the brilliant blackberry ice cream coyly hiding what lay below. Mushroom elbowed its way into the second dessert, providing a subtle earthy background to dark chocolate shards, rich chestnut ice cream and chocolate soil. To finish a trio of imaginative Petit Fours which again included the use of chicory, birch sap syrup, anise hyssop and crab apple. Service was top notch with staff providing details of every dish and really emphasizing the sustainability of the Black Swan’s operation that has brought it a Michelin green star to accompany the big one. The Black Swan is well worth the diversion that Mr. Bidendum recommends, just don’t put too much faith in GPS technology!
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