There's only a few stops left in the elite NYC omakase tour - SHION 69 Leonard Street New York - Reserveringen te koop
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😍 5/5 - There's only a few stops left in the elite NYC omakase tour
By 👻 @Alexander K., 01/08/2024 3:00 am
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There's only a few stops left in the elite NYC omakase tour for myself and Shion 69 didn't disappoint. Uino-san's skill is on clear display at his sushiya, especially so as he doesn't have an assistant helming the counter with him. He's essentially a one man show that can handle a full seating with adriot efficiency and pacing. Our menu for the evening included the following: kue and sawara sashimi, grilled kanpachi with julienned shiso leaf, ankimo, Hokkaido hotate on nori, kegani with vinegar sauce, crispy amadai with grated daikon, a full flight of nigiri (shima aji, hirame, amaebi, hon maguro akami, chiaigishi, chutoro, aori ika, kama toro aburi, Hokkaido uni, anago, nakazumi, kamasu, kajiki), a hon maguro temaki, and a very unique custard tamago. There is an honest simplicity with the otsumami he serves; there are only a few components for each appetizer. The very clean, delicate, and subtle shiromi flavors of the kue (gigantic/longtooth grouper) and sawara were displayed with a simple dollop of freshly grated wasabi and dipping sauce. The herbaceous and voluminous julienned shiso leaf provided a light accoutrement to the buttery kanpachi with crisped skin. The ankimo was extremely soft and smooth to the point where even slight pressure from the chopsticks caused it to fall apart; some of the best I have had in recent memory. The crisp nori enveloped the marinated, grilled hotate without empowering salinity from the marinade. The acidity of the vinegar sauce balanced the sweetness of the kegani very well, the strands of the horsehair crab on the top of the mound had a more pronounced sweetness than the bottom strands as the sauce settled at bottom of the shell. The amadai (tilefish) had its skin perfectly oil blanched where each scale was individually crispy and provided a clear textural contrast to the succulent, steaming white flesh. A blend of non-Yokoi akazu is used as he doesn't like the dark color of the Yokoi brand. The rice is allowed to rest for approximately an hour after the akazu solution is applied to the steamed rice. I would say that the shari is somewhat stickier in the center but still has a distinctive feel of the individual grains once you start chewing the nigiri. The flavor imparts a sweet acidic flavor that is distinctive but not overly aggressive or overpowering; some may prefer this over shari that is offered at establishments like Noz and Yoshino. I would say the personal standouts for me during the nigiri flight were the hon maguro akami, chiaigishi, kama toro aburi, and Shirokawa kajiki. Basically, all the red meat "akami" selections that were offered for the evening. They each provided distinctive umami and textures paired with the optimally warm shari. The hon maguro akami was served with an otoro paste on the underside of the neta along with the wasabi, which I found interesting and unique; a first for me personally. The kama toro aburi made the grains of the shari more individualistic and pearl-like due to the heat and melting fat of the toro. The hon maguro temaki was quite large, the biggest I've seen amongst the elite omakase experiences I've had. There are various diced cuts of the hon maguro, not only finely chopped otoro; there is also diced onion inside the temaki which provided a pungent and crisp contrast to the savory diced bluefin tuna. It probably ranks as the best temaki I've tasted, the volume and heft of it definitely added to the tasting experience. As far as techniques are concerned, I noticed a few that should be noted. Uino-san very carefully scored the aori ika, with a very fine crosshatch then cutting the squid slab into 3 thin strips for each neta. If a squid varietal is not thoroughly scored, it can be more difficult to chew as the texture is firmer than that of a fish. The nigiri itself was very aesthetic and pleasing to the eye. The neta of the kajiki (striped marlin) was comprised of 3 separate slabs combined into one. Scoring in general is an aspect that is very apparent in his neta; either 3 or more cuts on a bias or parallel to the length of the neta or a wider crosshatch to help with the draping of the neta over the shari. I believe this is necessary as Uino-san forms the nigiri with fewer movements than what I've seen with other itamae. This is characterized by a press in the center underside of the shari, a quick flip, pinch, squeeze, turn, pinch, squeeze in very quick succession; the speed was almost imperceptible through my video review. Uino-san works with intention and deep focus but is also willing to converse with his guests, even though I was the only guest during the turn that was primarily focused on his food and movements. We had a spirited discussion on whether shima aji and sawara were either hikarimono or shiromi as they have silver skin. When there was difficulty communicating in English, his staff was able to bridge the gap. Shion 69 firmly has its place amongst the finest omakase that New York City has to offer.
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