Different from everything: you have to go with an open mind - Mugaritz Errenteria - Reserveringen te koop
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😍 5/5 - Different from everything: you have to go with an open mind
By 👻 @Alberto S, 11/02/2023 3:00 am
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A unique place. I don't think it is suitable for everyone since you need to go with a very open mind and want to be surprised by breaking some mental scheme and understanding that here you don't come to eat the best turbot or the best peas tears or perfect dishes in combinations and cooking points. Hence many people may be disappointed and hence the low scores they have in this forum. Understandable in part because when you are going to celebrate an anniversary or an event with your partner and you choose a two Michelin star, you expect that type of culinary experience bordering on conventional excellence: with appetizers that whet your appetite, lustrous dishes with lobsters, perfectly cooked fish. and great sauces and stocks, or dishes with a twist but maintaining the taste and texture you expect. The experience I had in Mugaritz was something totally different from that and it is part of the fun too. Fermentations are used here, almost nothing is what you expect when you see it and sensations of perplexity or strangeness emerge in some preparations. The experience begins: The environment is cozy, silent, calm, bicolic... A baserri in the middle of nowhere. They welcome you and seat you at a wonderful table with the noise of the birds. Everything is reminiscent of those great restaurants in hamlets in Euskadi and fundamentally makes that traditional food travel: Etxebarri, the extinct Zuberoa, Horma Ondo, Garena, etc. with fire as the protagonist... nothing could be further from reality. I think this is a place of antagonisms and the first is how opposite the gastronomic concept and the enclave are. The "appetizers" begin to parade from the first moment, defying the unwritten law of logic in this type of starry places with long tasting menus. Appetizers are usually small, sweet, pleasant, tasty bites to whet your appetite and make your palate salivate. None of that here: a branch of thyme with ice on top, very suggestive but tastes of absolutely nothing, visually reminiscent of frost on trees. I laughed because I imagined some important person (some minister or London banker) sucking on the thyme branch in perplexity. It can only happen here. Another appetizer pass was a peach with pesto and the last one I tried was a suggestive bite that turned out to be almost like taking a bite out of a chive plantation. The taste that it left in my mouth before entering the room was unpleasant since it is very invasive and I am not a friend of this herb. With all your mental schemes broken, you arrive at the dining room. I was expecting the "worst", it may open your mind but taste-wise it is true that until that moment I had not enjoyed it so much. And that's when the waiter appears holding a hot cloth and placing it in your hands. At first the reaction is one of fear and strangeness, it seems that there is something alive in there. You uncover it and you find the warmth of a mother, as some philosopher would say. It directly took me back to the first lived and unremembered moment of my short existence. I have sometimes dreamed that I would have liked to remember those first moments and here they make the imagination fly towards them. It also tastes like what you imagine it tastes like, like milk, with very mild touches of coffee, or maybe it was our perception... Furthermore, there is no cutlery here and being in a two Michelin star restaurant I also take those molds and force the diner to eat with their hands or by sipping, as is the case of the following pass. An oyster soup with its beards and on the other hand a glass with the oysters in their first phase and a champagne. The iodized nuances of the oyster play with a little acidity of the champagne... a curious dish because it is like drinking an oyster without having to sip from its shell... a totally different format and without modifying the flavor so much, just the liturgy. I could be talking about the sensations of each dish but highlight the ones that caught my attention the most. There are many that contain fungal fermentations which can put off quite a few people including my partner, who came to this place for me. It is impressive to see their version of carbonara pasta injected with penicilium camemberti. I must clarify that it does not taste rotten at all but it is true that the texture is completely modified since it has a crust like the white part of the camembert cheese and gives it that cheesy taste. In fact, in taste it is absolutely reminiscent of a carbonara but the texture is radically different: while a good carbonara pasta is unctuous, this version has a hard texture and even a little plastic. All this made me reflect on what really tells us if something is good or bad: the flavor or the texture? Because, for example, some pig's trotters, or some tripe, or the kokotxas al pil pil, or the elvers themselves are good thanks to the texture they have and not so much to their flavor. Something similar can happen with this carbonara and it totally blows your mind since the flavor is the same as a carbonara pasta. The same thing happens with the bite of the "pizza", from a small moldy looking piece you close your eyes and it totally tastes like pizza with its tomato, basil and cheese. Minimalism in its purest form. Here they achieve truly incredible things by removing many foods from their preconceived texture and giving them a totally different one: the same thing happens with lamb, which has a curd texture... impressive! The dish of the octopus head skins is also impressive because it takes advantage of that part that everyone throws away to change the texture of the octopus and make a great meal. The visual component also plays an important role, that impact at the sight of its version of chorizo in cider. They worship what they were going to be, a cider house but with their own style of cooking: you eat with your hands and you eat the whole thing just like in traditional cider houses while you pick the bones from the roasted chicken with your hands. Finally, highlight the bite of the ox hump, it looks like a pastrami with a very tasty, completely concentrated sauce. Rich and sweet bite. Anyway, many more sensations than it is fashionable to write them all in a Tripadvisor review. I enjoyed it a lot, especially because they make your imagination fly and how they break schemes and preconceived ideas with food. Truly modern and research cuisine. It is not for everyone, but for curious, imaginative and unprejudiced people who like to try different things, I think it is a place to take into account. I also don't understand the criticism of people who say that there are many dishes that don't taste like anything: perhaps they are confusing texture with flavor. Or not... who knows.
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